Cathedral Pass Loop: Backpacking the Pasayten Wilderness in Washington

a backpacker looking out at a view of the pasayten wilderness from on cathedral peak. A long rocky ridge and an alpine lake in the distance.

Backpacking in the Pasayten Wilderness: A Comprehensive Guide to the Cathedral Pass Loop

The Pasayten Wilderness is one of Washington State's best-kept secrets; a sprawling, remote backcountry area tucked against the Canadian border in the North Cascades. It’s an amazing area, in our opinion, as stunning as the Enchantments but without the crowds and permit system.

One year when we didn’t get Enchantment permits but wanted a trip just as epic, we researched remote trails in the North Cascades and found the Cathedral Pass Loop. The Pasayten Wilderness is often overlooked since most backpackers in Washington want to visit the National Parks (Rainier, Olympics, North Cascades) and the Enchantments. But this area should be on your backpacking bucket list.

What is the Cathedral Pass Loop Trail?

This 35-mile lollipop loop through the Chewuch River valley, over the Boundary Trail ridgeline, and up to the beautiful Upper Cathedral Lake basin is one of the finest multi-day backpacking trips in all of Washington. Beyond just backpacking, there are also some amazing scrambles and alpine rock climbs in the area as well. In this guide, we share some bonus side trips that include a Class 4 scramble to the summit of Cathedral Peak and a hike up Amphitheater Mountain.

What makes this loop stand out is the combination of solitude, variety, and some summit objectives. You're not going to fight for campsites here. You're not going to share the ridgeline with a hundred other hikers. The Pasayten rewards those willing to put in the miles, and this loop delivers in a big way.

Below you'll find everything you need to plan a 3-night / 4-day backpacking trip through this corner of Washington's Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest, including a full day-by-day itinerary, campsite breakdowns, the Cathedral Peak scramble beta, and all the gear and logistics details you need.

two backpackers hiking on a trail through the pasayten wilderness with mountains in the background

Hiking down from Amphitheater Mountain on our hike out of the Cathedral lakes basin

Quick Hit Trail Facts on the Cathedral Pass Loop

Below is a quick overview of the backpacking route, but keep reading for more details on what to expect and how to plan your trip. The distance and elevation noted below does not include side trips up to Cathedral Peak or Amphitheater Mountain.

Trailhead

Chewuch Trailhead (Thirtymile Trailhead Alternative)

Distance

35 mi (56 km) — lollipop loop

Elevation Gain

5,490 ft (1,673 m) for the main loop

Trip Length

3 nights / 4 days

Difficulty

Strenuous — long days, remote terrain

Permit Required

Self Register at trailhead (Pasayten Wilderness)

Best Time to Go

July through mid-August

Dogs Allowed

Yes

Affiliate Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links, meaning we earn a small commission on purchases made through our links at no extra cost to you. We only link gear we actually use and trust.

Table of Contents

    Where Is the Pasayten Wilderness?

    USFS map of Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest

    Pasayten Wilderness shown at the very top of the map.

    The Pasayten Wilderness sits in the far northeastern corner of the Washington Cascades, bordering British Columbia to the north, and encompassing nearly 530,000 acres of roadless terrain.

    It's managed as part of the Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest and is one of the largest wilderness areas in Washington State. Winthrop, WA, is the closest large town to the area and has a unique country western theme. The Pasayten sits in a rain shadow of the Cascade range, giving it a drier, more continental character with big open ridge lines.

    What You Need to Know to Plan a Trip into the Pasayten Wilderness

    The Pasayten Wilderness is a true backcountry experience. You’re going to see significantly fewer people than a backpacking trip in the heart of the Cascades or in a National Park boundary. There is no backcountry infrastructure (toilets, bear boxes, bear hangs) and no permit requirements.

    That freedom is a big part of the appeal. Below are the key things to know for this specific area and route.

    the Chewuch trailhead sign with info on the trail

    The trailhead at the start of the hike. Photo credit: Nick Block (one of our friends who did this trip with us)

    No Advanced Permit Reservation Required

    Backpacking in the Pasayten Wilderness requires a free, self-issued Wilderness permit, which you fill out at the trailhead before starting your hike. No advance online reservations are required for Pasayten backcountry camping. But you will need a Northwest Forest Pass or America the Beautiful pass to park at the trailhead.

    Water Availability

    Water is the most important logistics consideration on this route, and its availability on trail changes significantly throughout the season. The Pasayten is in a drier region of Washington and water isn’t as abundant as in the western slopes of the Cascades.

    We detail water logistics in the day-by-day itinerary lower down, but here's what you really need to know.

    Water Sources Along the Trail:

    • Tungsten Mine Camp (Day 1): Water can be scarce in the late summer and early fall. The upper portion of Tungsten Creek may have some flow, but it's roughly a mile away from that camp (one-way). We did encounter some small trickles and swampy watering holes but don't count on reliable water here if hiking in August. We recommend filling up at the Chewuch River before ascending and carrying enough to last through the night and morning.

    • Upper Cathedral Lake (Days 2–3): Plentiful, reliable water year-round directly from the lake. This is the most water-secure camp on the route.

    • Lower Tungsten Creek Camp (Day 3-4): The Chewuch River and Lower Tungsten Creek typically have flowing water later in the season.

    Water carry capacity: We recommend at least 2–4 liters of water capacity per person depending on weather and seasonality. Always treat or filter before drinking from any source.

    Navigation

    Cell service is nonexistent for the entire trip. Download our GPX track and maps at home, before your trip. We use and recommend GaiaGPS for all offline navigation.

    a man hiking up a trail to cathedral peak in the pasayten wilderness with the rocky trail and mountains stretching out behind him

    Hiking up towards Cathedral Peak from camp in the basin

    Best Time to Hike the Pasayten Wilderness Loop

    Early July to early August is ideal for backpacking in the Pasayten Wilderness. By mid-summer, snowpack has typically cleared, water is still flowing at most sources, and the weather window is stable. By mid-September, expect colder nights, potential early snow at elevation, and drier conditions throughout. But if you plan to hike in early October, you will be treated to golden larches in the lake basin.

    Early season (before late June) can mean significant snow on the trail and more difficult route-finding. Come prepared with navigation tools regardless of the season.

    Season Conditions Required Gear Recommendation
    Early Season May – June Advanced Skills
    • Snow may still cover the Boundary Trail and upper elevations
    • Cool temperatures at elevation; cold nights
    • Route-finding on snow requires navigation skills
    • Microspikes or crampons
    • Trekking poles
    • Extra warm layers for cold nights at elevation

    Best left to experienced backpackers comfortable with snow travel and off-trail navigation. Not recommended for a first Pasayten trip.

    Peak Season Top Pick July – Early-August All Skill Levels
    • Snow has typically cleared from all trails and the Boundary Trail
    • Best water availability of the season
    • Warm days, cool nights at elevation
    • Stable weather patterns; low storm risk
    • Standard backpacking kit
    • Sun protection for hot sunny days
    • Light insulating layer for evenings

    The best combination of clear trails, reliable water, long days, and stable weather. Ideal for all experience levels.

    Late Summer Late August – Mid-September All Skill Levels
    • Excellent, stable weather with warm days and cool nights
    • Historically wildfire season. Smoke and potential road closures
    • Standard backpacking kit
    • Sun protection
    • Warmer sleep system for cold nights

    Still a great window with excellent weather and fewer crowds. Hotter day-time temperatures in August and less water availability from seasonal streams. Check air quality reports before heading out during fire season.

    Fall Late September – October Advanced
    • Cold temperatures. Freezing nights at elevation are common
    • Early season snow possible on the Boundary Trail and upper elevations
    • Seasonal water sources very limited
    • Dramatic fall colors in the valley
    • Full winter layering system
    • Microspikes (snow possible)
    • 4-season or winter-rated sleep system

    For experienced backpackers only. Short days and cold conditions demand solid cold-weather skills and gear. The valley colors can be beautiful which balances out the extra preparation needed for the cold weather.

    How to Leave No Trace in the Pasayten

    The Pasayten Wilderness provides a very rustic backpacking experience compared to the nearby national parks and national forests. There are no designated camping sites, backcountry toilets, or food storage options.

    It’s up to all visitors to help care for and practice Leave No Trace (LNT) ethics to preserve this special area.

    Below are LNT best practices that all backpackers should abide by:

    • Camping: Camp on durable surfaces. The Pasayten's meadows are fragile, stick to established sites where possible.
    • Campfires: Campfires are prohibited in certain high-elevation and sensitive areas. Always check current fire restrictions at the local ranger district before you leave.
    • Food storage: Use a bear canister, bear bag, or hang your food at least 200 feet from camp and 10 feet off the ground.
    • Stay on trail: Cutting switchbacks causes vegetation damage and erosion.
    • Pack out everything: All trash, food scraps, and toilet paper. If you packed it in, pack it out.
    • Waste disposal: Dispose of human waste properly by digging cat holes at least 200 feet from water, trails, and camp.
    • Don't feed wildlife: Human food is harmful to wildlife and creates problem animals.
    • Leave rocks and plants: Don't build cairns, pick flowers, or move large rocks.
    • Be considerate of others: Although this area sees much less traffic, respect people's space and wild experience.
    three hikers walking on a trail through a green meadow with trees and mountains in the background in the pasayten wilderness

    Hiking through meadows beneath Amphitheater Mountain

    The Route: Cathedral Pass Loop via the Chewuch Trailhead

    Overview of Pasayten Wilderness route via Chewuch trailhead

    Pasayten Wilderness Route Overview. Orange - Main Route, Purple - Alternative Thirtymile Trailheal start, Blue - Amphitheater Mountain and Cathedral Peak side trips.

    This route is a lollipop loop starting and ending at the Chewuch Trailhead. We recommend doing it counterclockwise by ascending via the Tungsten Trail and descending the Chewuch Trail back out.

    The counterclockwise direction is a more mellow ascent and has amazing views coming into the Cathedral Peak basin. The lake basin is likely where you’ll want to spend the most time and then decide on additional side trips (Cathedral Peak scramble, Amphitheater Mountain summit) along the way.

    Cathedral Pass Lop Via Chewuch Trailhead Elevation Profile

    Elevation profile of the backpacking trip from Chewuch Trailhead. Excludes side trips to Cathedral Peak and Ampitheater Mountain

    Alternative Trailhead Start: Thirtymile Trailhead

    Though we recommend starting from the Chewuch Trailhead, it’s also possible to start at Thirtymile Trailhead (purple on the topographic map above). Thirtymile trailhead starts lower in elevation, ascends up the river valley more gradually than the Chewuch Trailhead and is closer drive from Winthrop.

    That said, choosing the Thirtymile Trailhead adds 2.43 miles compared to the Chewuch start. We preferred the Chewuch Trailhead for the overall reduction in mileage and higher elevation for car camping the night before.

    Below is a breakdown in the difference between the two starts to help you decide what works best.

    → Note that this guide and the itinerary below assumes you start from the Chewuch trailhead for all mileage and itinerary estimates.

    Thirtymile vs Chewuch Trailhead Comparison

    Distance one-way Thirtymile Section — 4.81 mi
    Chewuch Section — 2.43 mi
    Thirtymile is ~2× longer to the Chewuch junction
    Junction elevation 4,311 ft Both routes meet at Chewuch Trail Junction
    Elevation gain going in Thirtymile Section — 968 ft
    Chewuch Section — 0 ft
    Chewuch is all downhill on the approach
    Elevation gain going out Thirtymile Section — 134 ft
    Chewuch Section — 1,221 ft
    Chewuch exit climbs 1,087 ft more than Thirtymile

    Thirtymile Section Chewuch Section Chewuch Trail Junction (4,311 ft)
    Elevation comparison: The Thirtymile Section climbs 968 ft over 4.81 miles; Chewuch Section descends 1,221 ft over 2.43 miles. Both meet at 4,311 ft.

    Thirtymile Section
    Fresh legs on mellow 968 ft climb up the valley
    Better maintained and cleared of seasonal tree blowdowns
    Trailhead is 60 min drive from Winthrop
    Gradual descent on your way out to the trailhead
    Nearly twice the mileage to reach the junction
    Chewuch Hairpin
    Starts at 5,532 ft — cooler car camping temperatures
    Zero elevation gain going in
    Half the distance (2.43 mi) to reach the junction
    Trailhead is 2.5 - 3 hour drive from Winthrop
    Exit requires 1,221 ft of climbing at the end of your trip
    Trail wasn’t well maintained and had some downed trees

    Backpacking the Cathedral Pass Loop, a Day-by-Day Itinerary

    two backpackers hiking towards the camera on a forested trail

    A forested section of the trail heading towards Tungsten Mine Camp

    Day 1: Chewuch Trailhead to Tungsten Mine Camp

    11.8 mi (19 km) | Gain: 2,670 ft (814 m) | Time: 5 - 8 hours

    Day 1 is your biggest mileage day and gets a good portion of the ascent into the Cathedral Lake basin over with. From the Chewuch Trailhead, you'll follow the Chewuch Trail north, down into the Chewuch River valley.

    On the way down there will most likely be some tree blowdowns in the first 2 miles, but they weren’t difficult to get around when we visited. The Chewuch trail continues up the river valley before turning off onto the Tungsten Trail, which climbs steadily toward the Tungsten Mine Camp.

    The trail is well-maintained through this section and gains elevation gradually at first before steepening as you approach the mine area. The forest transitions from mixed conifers to more open subalpine terrain as you climb.

    backpackers inside an old cabin filled with wooden signs

    Taking an early afternoon break inside the Tungsten Mine Cabin. Photo credit: Nick Block

    Tungsten Mine Camp sits in an open area near the historic tungsten mining site. It's a decent camp with flat open areas to pitch your tent or you can sleep inside the rustic cabin remains of the camp. If you do sleep inside the cabin, be prepared for nighttime critters to visit you…

    Water can be scarce in late summer in this section. When we visited in mid-August, there were a few trickling streams along the trail and some swampy watering holes. Filter and fill your water supply at the seasonal tarn and/or where the trail nears Tungsten Creek about 2.3 miles before reaching camp. Carry enough for the evening and morning if you’re visiting later in the season (late-August to late September). There are internet rumors that you can descend from the mining camp to Tungsten Creek via a social trail but we didn’t find it in-person or a credible track online.

    the sun setting over the cathedral lakes basin with hills and a lake below

    Sunset in the Cathedral Lake basin, views from camp

    Alternative Day 1 Itinerary: Skip Tungsten Mine Camp and go straight to Upper Cathedral Lake

    17.4 mi (28 km) | Gain: 3,793 ft (1,156 m) | Time: 8 - 12 hours

    If you're a strong backpacker and want to maximize time at Upper Cathedral Lake, it's absolutely possible to skip Tungsten Mine Camp and push all the way through to Upper Cathedral Lake on Day 1 (this is what we did).

    We had a fast group with an early start time so we made it to Tungsten Mine Camp by lunch time and decided we could continue on and make it all the way to the lake. This is a big day at 17.4 miles with significant gain, but it gives you an extra full day at Upper Cathedral Lake.

    When we did this trip we only had a long three day weekend to complete the loop so we opted for this option and can vouch that it’s possible.

    A backpacker hiking on a trail with trees in front of him and cathedral peak in the distance

    Hiking on the Boundary Trail before getting to the base of Cathedral Peak

    Day 2: Tungsten Mine Camp to Upper Cathedral Lake

    5.6 mi (9.0 km) | Gain: 1,123 ft (342 m) | Time: 2.5 - 4 hours

    Day 2 is a short day of travel that leaves you extra time to enjoy Upper Cathedral Lake in the afternoon or take on the Cathedral Peak scramble (details below) and catch sunset from camp.

    From the Tungsten Mine Camp, continue on the Tungsten Trail to the Boundary Trail, where the landscape opens up dramatically onto one of the finest ridgelines in the Pasayten, with views of Cathedral peak in the distance.

    From the Boundary Trail, you'll turn south toward the Cathedral Lakes area and drop into the Upper Cathedral Lake basin.

    Camping spots are dispersed throughout the area. There are no official sites and all are first-come-first-served. We chose to camp on some lovely rock slabs near a tarn above Upper Cathedral Lake. There were additional sites along the shore of Upper Cathedral Lake too.

    a tent reflecting in a tarn with pine trees and a rock face behind

    Camping at the tarn above Upper Cathedral Lake

    Camping at Upper Cathedral Lake, or the tarn where we camped, is the highlight of the whole trip. The camp areas are flat, water is abundant year-round directly from the lake, and the views from camp are extraordinary. We recommend focusing the majority of your camping time here.

    It’s worth mentioning that despite the drier climate of this area, there is still plenty of standing water for mosquitoes. When we visited in mid-August, they were still swarming us at our campsite unfortunately.

    Side Trip from Camp: Scramble Cathedral Peak

    a man climbing up rocks on the scramble up cathedral peak in the pasayten wilderness

    Garrett on the scramble up Cathedral Peak

    Doing the scramble up Cathedral Peak was one of the biggest highlights of the trip for our group. The scramble can be done in the morning or afternoon from Upper Cathedral Lake Camp. Just note that if you choose an afternoon/evening summit, there is a risk of being caught in an afternoon thunderstorm. In this area, always keep a close watch on the mountain weather.

    Cathedral Peak Scramble Stats:

    • Distance: ~1 mi (1.6 km) one way from Upper Cathedral Lake Camp

    • Elevation Gain: 1,222 ft (373 m) one way

    • Difficulty: Class 4 with a few short low class 5th moves.

    • Gear recommended: Helmet, approach shoes, trekking poles for the steeper lower section

    • Route: Approximate Track from Upper Cathedral Lake Camp to Summit

    The scramble begins directly from Upper Cathedral Lake camp and gains elevation quickly. The lower section is Class 2-3 on loose scree and talus, while the upper section involves some Class 4 moves where you'll be using both hands and feet on steeper rock.

    There were some cairns along the way but you’ll also have to use some route finding skills to find the path to the top. As you ascend the peak, there are a few short low 5th class sections of climbing (images above) where we spotted each other as a group since a fall would likely injure the climber.

    You’ll eventually reach the top of the peak, which is a large boulder field with expansive views in all directions. Unfortunately, it’s difficult to reach the true summit without some serious bravery or climbing gear. The summit lies beyond a high consequential cliff gap that you need to jump up and across. We only recommend this for experienced scramblers and climbers.

    a scrambler standing on the summit of cathedral peak in the north cascades

    Skye standing on top of Cathedral Peak

    All that said, the summit views are exceptional with a full 360-degree panorama of the Pasayten, north into Canada, west toward the high Cascades, and east toward the rolling terrain of the Okanogan. This is one of the best scrambles we've done in Washington that doesn't require climbing gear or a rope.

    As mentioned above, we do recommend a helmet and approach shoes for scrambling as an extra precaution. Fall potential does exist on the upper section.

    Descend carefully; the upper Class 4 section is committing in both directions, and can be harder to down climb. Three of the four people in our group did wear approach shoes for the scramble, but Skye chose to do the entire backpacking trip and scramble in her trail runners. So it’s up to you based on your scrambling experience and personal preference what type of shoes you wear.

    Backpackers hiking through a meadow of mid-august flower bloom near Remmel Lake

    Mid-August wildflower bloom between Amphitheater Peak and Remmel Lake

    Day 3: Upper Cathedral Lake to Tungsten Creek Camp

    10.5 mi (16.9 km) | Gain: 363 ft (111 m) | Time: 4 - 7 hours

    Day 3 takes you out of the Cathedral Lakes basin and back to the Boundary Trail and eventually the Chewuch Trail heading south toward Tungsten Creek. The route deviates along a short section of unmaintained — yet well traveled — trail to head up to the summit of Amphitheater Mountain.

    Although the mileage is moderate, there is a ~2 mile stretch on the Chewuch Trail where it crosses Cathedral Creek to the junction with Four Points Creek with a large amount of blowdown trees. The down trees are a result of the 2001 Thirty Mile forest fire as well as fires in 2003 and 2006.

    A hiker standing on a down tree in a burned section of forest with black, burnt trees all around

    Garrett standing in a huge section of burnt forest

    This slows progress significantly since you still need to climb up and over down trees with heavy packs on a generally overgrown trail. Additionally there are still sections of the trail that have a large amount of tree snags that can present a falling hazard in windy conditions. And it’s also worth noting that there is little shade on hot days.

    The trail is clear again at the Four Points Creek junction and is well maintained beyond this point back to the Chewuch Trailhead.

    If you’re planning to summit Amphitheater Mountain (details below) make sure you factor some extra time and energy in to navigate the down tree section.

    Side Trip: Hike to the Summit of Amphitheater Mountain

    hikers heading up the trail to the summit of amphitheater mountain with a rocky trail and summit in the distance

    Hiking up Ampitheater Mountain, photo credit: Nick Block

    About 1.5 miles from Upper Amphitheater Lake, you'll reach the junction for Amphitheater Mountain. This is a well-traveled class 2 trail (not off-trail or any scrambling) and the grade is pretty mellow up to the summit of Amphitheater Mountain.

    Amphitheater Mountain Trail Stats:

    • Distance: 1.8 mi (2.9 km) round trip from the junction

    • Elevation Gain: 739 ft (225 m) round trip

    • Difficulty: Moderate — trail hiking, no scrambling

    • Time: Allow 1–2 hours

    • Route: Approximate route from the trail junction

    On the way up the southwest side of Amphitheater Mountain, you can cache your overnight gear at the trail junction, but do not leave food in your pack since this is still critter and bear country. Carry your food and any smelly attractants in a daypack if you choose to cache your packs.

    Unfortunately, there aren’t any tall trees in this area to build a bear hang with. We emptied our packs and shared two backpacking packs turned daypacks among the group.

    The trail climbs steadily to the broad summit of Amphitheater Mountain, where the views open up across the Pasayten's rolling terrain in every direction. It's a completely different vantage point from Cathedral Peak.

    a hiker walking on a rock slab on top of a peak in the pasayten wilderness

    Exploring the flat summit of Amphitheater Mountain

    Alternative Campsite: Upper Cathedral Lake to Remmel Lake Camp

    3.2 mi (5.1 km) | Gain: 389ft (119m) | Time: 2-3 hours

    If you’d rather soak up more time at Upper Cathedral Lake or at the summit of Amphitheater Mountain there is an alternative camp site along Remmel Lake. This makes for a shorter mileage day but also allows for more side trip flexibility and a longer day on the last day out. Remmel Lake is a small detour from our route but is worth visiting if you need to top-off water too.

    fireweed flowers and hills with trees on them with pink clouds at sunset

    Day 4: Tungsten Creek Camp to Chewuch Trailhead

    6.9 mi (11.1 km) | Gain: 1,334 ft (407 m) | Time: 3 - 4.5 hours

    Day 4 is a relatively short, pleasant walk out through the Chewuch River valley back to the trailhead. The Chewuch Trail follows the river closely through the shady forest. Just save some energy for that final climb up to the Chewuch Trailhead if you started there instead of Thirtymile trailhead.

    Additional Resources to Check Pasayten Wilderness Conditions & Weather

    How to Get to the Chewuch Trailhead

    map showing the driving directions to the chewuch trailhead

    The Chewuch Trailhead is located northeast of Winthrop off Chewuch Road (Forest Road 51). The drive from Winthrop takes approximately 2.5-3 hours and the last several miles are on a maintained forest road suitable for low clearance vehicles.

    From Winthrop, WA

    Head north on WA-20 briefly, then turn right onto East Chewuch Road. Follow it north as it transitions to Forest Road 51 and continues up the Chewuch River valley. The trailhead is located at the end of the road near the wilderness boundary. Always call the local ranger station for the most recent roadway updates.

    Trailhead Facilities

    There is a vault toilet and trailhead signage at the Chewuch Trailhead. No water. Stock up on water, food, and fuel in Winthrop before heading up the valley. You do need a Northwest Forest Pass or America the Beautiful pass for trailhead parking.

    How to Get to Thirtymile Trailhead

    map of the driving directions to the thirtymile trailhead

    The Thirtymile Trailhead is located north of Winthrop off Forest Service Road 51. The drive from Winthrop takes approximately 60 minutes and is suitable for low clearance vehicles. Always call the local ranger station for the most recent roadway updates.


    From Winthrop, WA (~1 hour, ~29 miles)

    Head north on Okanogan County Road 1213 (West Chewuch Road) from downtown Winthrop. The road transitions to Forest Service Road 51 as it heads up the Chewuch River valley. After ~20 miles on FSR 51, fork left to FSR 5160. Follow FSR 5160 for approximately 11 miles total to the Thirtymile Trailhead at the road's end. A high-clearance vehicle is recommended for the final forest road miles, especially early in the season.

    Trailhead Facilities

    Vault toilet and picnic tables on-site. No potable water, but Chewuch River is nearby for filtering water. You will need a Northwest Forest Pass or America the Beautiful pass to park at the trailhead.

    backpackers descending amphitheater mountain along a trail in the pasayten wilderness

    Descending from Amphitheater Mountain near the lower trail junction. Andrew Peak in background.

    What to Pack for Backpacking in the Pasayten Wilderness

    Packing the right gear is essential for any multi-day trip, but even more so with the remote nature of the Pasayten Wilderness. Alpine conditions and variable weather demand the right preparation with lightweight, durable gear.

    Layers are critical, temperatures can swing from hot sun to near-freezing at night, and afternoon thunderstorms can happen. We recommend a solid layering system including a warm puffy jacket for camp. Trail runners or lightweight hiking boots work well for most people, though some prefer approach shoes for scrambling Cathedral Peak.

    Below are our gear recommendations, products we regularly use on all of our backpacking trips, and what we find necessary after countless backpacking trips throughout the Cascades and around the world.

    A woman blowing up a sleeping pad in front of a tent near Upper Cathedral Lake

    Skye setting up camp near Upper Cathedral Lake, with the base of Amphitheater Mountain in the background

    Backpacking Big Three: Backpack, Tent, and Sleep System

    Your big three—backpack, tent, and sleep system—are the foundation of your gear. For long mileage backpacking trips like this, ultralight gear makes a huge difference. We’ve listed what we use and recommend below, but for a complete list of the best ultralight backpacking gear, check out our Ultralight Backpacking Gear Guide.

    The Big Three We Use and Recommend

    • 55L Backpack: A comfortable, ultralight pack in the 50-60L range is ideal for a 2-4 day trip. Our all-time favorite backpacking pack is the Hyperlite Mountain Gear Southwest 55L, we both brought ours on this trip and it was perfect in size and comfort. It's waterproof, lightweight, and comfortable.

    • Tent/Shelter: We love light weight trekking pole tents for backpacking, they are spacious and packdown small. Just make sure you have your own extendable trekking poles to pitch your tent with. Our two favorites are the Zpacks Triplex and Hyperlite Unbound 2. Both are spacious and under 1.5 lbs!

    • Sleeping Bag or Quilt & Sleeping Pad: We both use lightweight quilts and brought our 20-degree Hyperlite and Therm-a-Rest quilts for this trip. A good insulated sleeping pad like the Nemo Tensor All Season or a Therm-a-Rest NeoAir Xtherm NXT is essential for comfort on rocky ground.

    Backpacking Essentials for the Pasayten

    Backpacking in the high alpine terrain of the Pasayten Wilderness is different from forest trails and lower elevation. Alpine areas and even the lower fire scarred Chewuch Canyon requires extra sun protection, warm layers for cold mornings, and gear that can handle rocky scrambling.

    Below is a checklist of our favorite trail-tested backpacking items we bring with us.

    Backpacking Gear to Pack with You

    a man and woman backpackers, both wearing bright colored sun hoodies and shorts on the trail

    Both of us wearing OR Echo Sun Hoodies and running shorts in the Pasayten

    Hiking Clothing to Wear and Pack

    → For a full comprehensive checklist for backpacking clothing, check out our guide on What to Wear Backpacking and Hiking.

    Extra Gear for Scrambling Cathedral Peak:

    • Helmet: Recommended for rockfall and falling protection. We carry a Black Diamond Vision Climbing Helmet for its comfort and weight savings.

    • Approach shoes: Dedicated approach shoes if you have them but trail runners with lugged soles work well for us. Our favorite is the La Sportiva TX4

    backpackers navigating a burned section of trail and hiking around downed trees

    Hiking through the end of the burned section of trail, photo credit: Nick Block

    FAQ for Backpacking the Cathedral Pass Loop

    Do you need a permit to backpack in the Pasayten Wilderness?

    No. Unlike many popular Washington wilderness areas, no overnight permit is required for the Pasayten Wilderness. A free self-issue permit is required at the trailhead and you'll need a Northwest Forest Pass (or America the Beautiful pass) for trailhead parking.

    How long does this loop take?

    We recommend 3 nights / 4 days for most backpackers. This gives you a comfortable pace, a full afternoon/morning for the Cathedral Peak scramble, and time to actually enjoy Upper Cathedral Lake. Strong, experienced hikers can do it in 2 days / 1 night by pushing directly to Upper Cathedral Lake on Day 1 and out via Tungsten Creek on Day 2.

    Is Cathedral Peak safe to scramble without a rope?

    For experienced hikers and scramblers comfortable with Class 4 terrain, yes. The route does not require ropes or technical climbing gear. There are a few short low 5th class sections but they don’t require climbing equipment. A helmet is still recommended. If you're not comfortable on Class 4 and low 5th class terrain, the lake itself is a spectacular destination and the scramble can be skipped without any regret.

    What is the water situation on this route?

    Water is the most important logistics consideration. Tungsten Mine camp can be dry or have very limited water in late summer. Upper Cathedral Lake has reliable year-round water. Lower Tungsten Creek typically has flow in summer but this can vary. Always carry extra capacity and treat all water.

    Are dogs allowed in the Pasayten Wilderness?

    Yes, dogs are allowed. Keep them under control and practice Leave No Trace ethics with their waste as well.

    What is the best campsite on the route?

    Upper Cathedral Lake, without question. If you can only spend extra time in one place, make it here.

    Can this loop be done in reverse (clockwise)?

    Technically yes, but we don't recommend it. Counterclockwise puts you at Upper Cathedral Lake on Day 2 with a short hiking day and a full afternoon for the Cathedral Peak scramble. Clockwise up Chewuch valley adds uphill travel with heavier packs through a 2 mile burn section with down trees from the 2001, 2003 and 2006 forest fires.

    Do I need a bear canister in the Pasayten Wilderness?

    Bear canisters are not legally required in the Pasayten Wilderness, but proper food storage is mandatory and strongly encouraged. There are no bear boxes or established bear hangs on this route, so you'll need to bring your own solution, a bear canister, an Ursack, or a cord and stuff sack for a hang at least 200 feet from camp and 10 feet off the ground.

    Are campfires allowed in the Pasayten Wilderness?

    Campfires are allowed in the Pasayten Wilderness but are prohibited in certain high-elevation and sensitive areas, and subject to seasonal fire restrictions during dry conditions. Always check current fire restrictions with the Methow Valley Ranger District before your trip. During peak summer and late summer, when this route sees the most traffic, fire restrictions are common. All that said, we highly recommend a camp stove as your primary cooking method regardless of restrictions. Campfires can scar the ground and gathering wood for campfires can deplete local wood resources for animals and insects and are a top cause of human caused forest fires.

    Are there designated campsites on this route?

    No. All camping on this route is dispersed, there are no designated sites, established tent pads, or first-come-first-served reservation systems. You choose your own site within Leave No Trace guidelines: at least 200 feet from water sources and trails, on durable surfaces like rock or dry dirt wherever possible. The Cathedral Lakes basin has several well-worn spots near the lake shore and on rock slabs above the lake that previous parties have used. In general the Pasayten sees low enough traffic that finding a good site at any of the three camps on this route is rarely an issue.

    How fit do I need to be for this loop?

    This is a strenuous trip that requires a solid base of hiking fitness. In our guide, Day 1 is 11.8 miles with 2,670 feet of gain and a fully loaded pack. If you can comfortably complete a 10+ mile day hike with 2,500 feet of gain before this trip, you're in good shape. The optional Cathedral Peak scramble and Amphitheater Mountain hike add additional physical and technical demands on top of the base loop. This is not a beginner backpacking trip, but fit and motivated intermediate backpackers who put in the preparation will handle it well.

    Looking down at amphitheater mountain and upper cathedral lake in the pasayten

    Looking down at Amphitheater and Upper Cathedral Lake from Cathedral Peak

    Final Thoughts on Backpacking in the Pasayten

    The Pasayten doesn't get the attention it deserves, and honestly, that's part of what makes it so good. This backpacking loop is just scratching the surface of the massive Pasayten Wilderness and is a great introduction to the area, and if you love it, there’s so many more trails out here.

    As a reminder, the itinerary in this guide is a suggestion, not a prescription. A fit group with an early start can push straight through to Upper Cathedral Lake on Day 1, giving you more time in the basin for Cathedral Peak, Amphitheater Mountain, or simply sitting by the water.

    A more relaxed pace with an extra night — either at Tungsten Mine Camp or Remmel Lake — lets you slow down and enjoy the moment more. The flexibility is one of its strengths.

    However you choose to break it up, the Pasayten asks a little more of you than a high traffic trail in a national park. In return, it gives you something genuine wilderness, extraordinary views, and a summit or two you'll be talking about for years.

    Enjoy the trail!

    Prusik Peak with golden larches and tiny tents, reflecting in a tarn at sunrise in the core enchantments

    Backpacking in the Core Enchantments in October

    Further Reading & More Backpacking Guides

    More Backpacking Trips You Will Love:

    Backpacking Gear Guides & What to Pack:


    Like this Post? Pin it & Save it For Later

    Next
    Next

    Best Hikes & Must-Stop Spots in Valley of Fire State Park