Your Complete Patagonia Backpacking Guide: Planning the O-Circuit and W Trek in Torres del Paine
Patagonia had been on my bucket list for years, and it was a trip that always felt out of reach. But when my husband Garrett and I decided to take a year off to travel, we knew it was our chance to explore as much of Patagonia as we could. The O-Circuit in Torres del Paine, Chile, was our first stop in Patagonia, and one of my favorite backpacking trips we have done to date.
Below you'll find everything you need to plan the trek: how to get there, how the park ticket system works, how to book campsites, our day-by-day itinerary, what it all cost, and what I packed. If you're short on time, I also cover the W Trek and how it compares to the full O.
Disclaimer: This blog post contains affiliate links, meaning I receive a small commission on every purchase made with my links at no additional cost to you. Sometimes there is even a discount code for my readers which I specify next to the links.
Table of Contents
What is the O-Circuit?
The O-Circuit is a 75-mile (120 km) loop around the Paine Massif (Cordillera del Paine) in Torres del Paine National Park, Chilean Patagonia. It combines the popular W Trek on the front (south) side of the park with a quieter, more remote trail around the back (north) side, completing the full "O."
Distance: 75 miles (120 km)
Total Elevation Gain: 18,000+ feet (5,486 m)
Days to Complete: 7–10 days (we did 7 of hiking)
Difficulty: Moderate on the W | Hard/Remote on the back side of the O
Season: The O is open November 1 to March 31
Best Time to Hike: January–February for the most stable weather; late November or March for fewer crowds
Typical Weather: Sun, rain, high winds; snow possible at higher elevations
You can hike fully self-supported, camping with your own gear and food, or stay in refugios that provide meals each night. For backpackers who already own their gear, self-supported trekking is the way to go.
How to Get to Torres del Paine
Puerto Natales is the gateway town for Torres del Paine, and it's where you'll want to stay before and after your trek. There are two main ways to get there.
Option 1: Fly into Puerto Natales (what we did)
Puerto Natales has a small airport (Aeropuerto Teniente Julio Gallardo, PNT) with flights from Santiago during the summer trekking season. It's the closest airport to the park and saves you a long bus ride. Flights are seasonal and routes change year to year, so check what's running for your dates.
Option 2: Fly into Punta Arenas and bus to Puerto Natales
Punta Arenas (Aeropuerto Internacional Presidente Carlos Ibáñez del Campo, PUQ) has year-round flights and usually more options. From the airport or the city, buses run to Puerto Natales in about 3 hours. This is a great option if flights into Puerto Natales are full or pricey.
Getting from Puerto Natales into the park
Buses leave from the Puerto Natales bus terminal (Terminal Rodoviario) every morning during the season and take about 2 hours to reach the park. We booked Bus Sur as part of our Booking Patagonia package. Where you get off depends on where you start:
• Starting at Central (Base Torres side): get off at Laguna Amarga, where you show your park ticket, then take the shuttle to Central.
• Starting at Paine Grande (what we did): stay on the bus to Estancia Pudeto, then take the catamaran across Lago Pehoé to Paine Grande.
Book your return bus in advance and note the afternoon departure times from Pudeto and Laguna Amarga so you don't miss the last bus out.
Park Tickets, Permits & Booking Campsites (2026)
You need three things booked before you go: a park entry ticket, a reservation for every campsite or refugio, and transportation to and from Puerto Natales. You can't just show up and wing it on the O.
Park entry tickets: the new online system
The park used to sell tickets at the gate. Since the 2025–26 season, tickets are sold online only, by sector, and some trails have time slots. If you show up without one, you may not get in.
Go to pasesparques.cl and find Parque Nacional Torres del Paine.
Choose the Paine / O-Circuit ticket. The other options (Full Day, Base Torres, W Circuit) don't cover the full loop.
Download the PDF with the QR code before you leave town. Rangers scan it at the entrance, and there's very little cell signal in the park.
For foreign visitors, entry is about CLP $48,500 (around $50 USD) per person as of Oct 2026.
| Ticket | Chilean Residents | Foreign Visitors |
|---|---|---|
| Adult Day Pass18+ years | CLP $9,400 | CLP $32,400 |
| Adult 3+ Day Pass18+ years Needed for the W & O |
CLP $14,200 | CLP $48,500 |
| Teen Day Pass12–17 years | CLP $5,200 | CLP $16,600 |
| Teen 3+ Day Pass12–17 years | CLP $8,200 | CLP $48,500 |
| Senior Day PassOver 60 | Free | CLP $32,400 |
| Senior 3+ Day PassOver 60 | Free | CLP $48,500 |
| ChildrenUnder 12 | Free | Free |
Fees are set by CONAF and sold through pasesparques.cl. Prices from Las Torres Patagonia; check the official site before you go, as fees can change each season.
Booking campsites and refugios
All overnight sites on the O are now run by two private companies, Las Torres Patagonia and Vertice, so you can either book directly on both websites or use a site like Booking Patagonia to book everything at once. The free CONAF campsites (Torres, Italiano and Paso) have been closed since 2024 and remain closed for the 2026–27 season. You don't need them to complete the W or the O.
We booked our entire trek through Booking Patagonia about three months in advance and were able to get every site we wanted except Dickson and the Grey campsite. There's a booking fee, but we thought it was worth it to save time and make sure everything lined up correctly. Back in 2023, we spent about $550 USD on camping, the park entrance fee and our buses to and from the park.
Tips for booking:
Book as early as you can. Reservations for the next season usually open between April and June, and January–February dates fill fast.
Book your campsites in order around the loop so your daily distances actually work. Since we couldn’t book Dickson on our trip, we had one long 20-mile day from Serón to Los Perros.
Every campsite checks you in with your passport and the entry card you get when you arrive in Chile, so keep both handy.
Views between Paine Grande and Cuernos camps
Torres del Paine Sleeping Setups on the O-Circuit
There are multiple ways to do both the W and the O in terms of sleeping arrangements and food. We love long and hard backpacking trips, so we opted to do the trek fully self-supported, carrying our own tent and sleep systems and all of our own food. Though this was the perfect option for us, and the most affordable, there are other options if you want a little more luxury or need to carry less weight on your trek. Below are the various sleep options that are available along the trail. Note that not all locations have the same sleep options.
Refugio: a lodge with dorm rooms of bunk beds, usually four to six people per room, shared with strangers. Bathrooms and showers are shared. There’s a communal dining room, and you can usually buy meals on their own or as a full-board package. Bedding is included or available to rent. Refugios are at Central, Dickson, Grey, Paine Grande, Cuernos and Chileno.
Domes (domos): insulated geodesic dome tents on platforms, mostly furnished with bunk or single beds. They’re usually shared like a refugio dorm, with the same shared bathrooms, and you eat at the main building. They’re a step up from camping and feel more like glamping. Domes are at Central, Francés and Cuernos.
Cabins (cabañas): small private wooden cabins, typically for two people, at Cuernos. They’re the most private way to sleep mid-trail.
Hotel: Hotel Las Torres at Central, near the trailhead, is the only one on the route. It has private rooms with ensuite bathrooms, a restaurant and bar, and spa services. Since it sits at the start and end of the O, it’s an option for the nights before and after the trek rather than during it.
Fully Self-Supported
This is the most affordable option. You only pay for camping fees and your park ticket, and you carry your own tent, sleep system, cookware and food. If you're used to backpacking in the US or Canada, I highly recommend this option. Our packs still felt light, and I liked being able to plan our own food.
Partially Supported - Rent Tents and/or Purchase Meals
If you want to stay in tents but either don’t own your own, or don’t want to carry the weight, you can rent tents at every campground. The rental tents looked sturdy in the wind and sleep two people. Since we did not opt to rent, I am not sure what they looked like inside, but you can also rent sleeping pads. If you are not an avid backpacker or are worried about the mileage, this could be a good option. Personally, I just don’t like the idea of sleeping in a tent other people have slept in before.
You also have the option when you book your reservations to purchase fully cooked meals at each refugio. You can opt in to meals even if you are camping, but they do need to be purchased in advance with your housing reservations.
Fully Supported - Staying in Refugios, Cabins, Domes or Hotels
This is the most expensive option, but many people do opt to sleep in all the refugios and have all of their meals served as well. For singles or friends, this can be a great option to stay in bunks, but for couples it can be better to camp so you can be next to each other. All of the refugios had bunks and usually there were between 4 and 6 people per room. I will say, if the weather is bad, it would be nice to have a warm, dry bed to go to after a long day.
Below is a photo of a sign that shows amenities at each campground. Even though it highlights the W, it does list all campsites on the O.
Here's every overnight stop on the O, who runs it, and what we thought. They're listed in counterclockwise order from Central.
| Campsite | Operator | Sleeping Options | Amenities | Our Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1Central | Las Torres | Camping Refugio Domes Hotel | Bathrooms Showers Meals Wi-Fi Cards | Huge open field, camp wherever you like; store at the bus stop 5 minutes away. |
| 2Serón | Las Torres | Camping only | Bathrooms Showers Meals Cards | Only one toilet per gender and two showers; the only camp with (a few) mosquitoes. |
| 3Dickson | Vertice | Camping Refugio | Bathrooms Showers Meals Cards | Beautiful lakeside spot with a well-stocked store; fills up fast. |
| 4Los Perros | Vertice | Camping only | Bathrooms Showers Store | Most remote camp. You must be on the trail by 7 a.m. |
| 5Grey | Vertice | Camping Refugio | Bathrooms Showers Meals Wi-Fi Cards | Nicest refugio of the trek, with great food. |
| 6Paine Grande | Vertice | Camping Refugio | Bathrooms Showers Meals Wi-Fi Cards | Crowded, very windy, and sandy; catamaran dock to Pudeto. |
| 7Francés | Las Torres | Camping Domes | Bathrooms Showers Meals Wi-Fi Cards | Base for the French Valley (we didn’t stay here). |
| 8Cuernos | Las Torres | Camping Refugio Cabins Domes | Bathrooms Showers Meals Wi-Fi Cards | Tent platforms overlooking Lago Nordenskjöld. |
| 9Chileno | Las Torres | Camping Refugio | Bathrooms Showers Meals Wi-Fi Cards | Rustic; platforms in the trees, sheltered from wind; closest camp to Base Las Torres. |
| –Torres, Italiano, Paso | CONAF | Closed | Toilet only | Closed since 2024. You don’t need them to complete the W or the O. |
Amenities are from the park’s official trailhead signage and our own experience. “Cards” means card payments are accepted. Book Las Torres sites through Las Torres Patagonia and Vertice sites through Vertice, or book both at once with Booking Patagonia.
Which Direction to Hike & Where to Start
The O has to be hiked counterclockwise. Park rules require it on the back side to manage traffic, so everyone moves in the same direction from Central through Serón, Dickson, Los Perros and over John Gardner Pass to Grey. Where you get to choose is your starting point. Note there are also trail closure times, so you must make it to specific checkpoints. You cannot go back the way you came. For example, when we moved from Serón to Los Perros we passed through Dickson and the rangers almost stopped us from continuing because the trail ahead was set to close in 30 minutes!
Start at Central (what most people do): You take the bus to Laguna Amarga and start on the back side first, finishing with the W. The upside is that you hit the remote section while you're fresh. The downside is that you carry your heaviest pack on the longest days.
Start at Paine Grande (what we did): You take the catamaran from Pudeto, hike the eastern half of the W to Central, loop around the back side, and finish back at Paine Grande. We loved starting with the catamaran ride, and the W was a great warm-up before the harder, more remote days. The tradeoff is that it splits the W, so you hike from Paine Grande to Central first and from Grey back to Paine Grande at the end.
Either way works. Pick the one that matches the campsites you can actually get.
Trail views and high spirits
Our 8-Day O-Circuit Itinerary in Torres del Paine
We decided to do the O in 8 days based on the campsites we could get a few months in advance. You can start the trek one of two ways, from Central (what most people do), or by taking the catamaran (ferry) from Pudeto to Paine Grande and starting with the W portion of the circuit (what we did). We wanted to take the catamaran, so starting at Paine Grande made the most sense to us, and I’m glad we did it that way.
Day 1 - Enter the Park: Catamaran to Paine Grande
No hiking, just getting into the park and camping our first night. We took a bus (Bus Sur) from Puerto Natales to Pudeto that morning and then took the catamaran across Lago Pehoé to Refugio Paine Grande and its campground. The catamaran can be booked in advance or paid upon arrival. It cost $30 USD cash per person one way, and they took both USD and Chilean pesos. When we reached Paine Grande, we checked into our campsite and set up camp. Every campsite had you check in with your passport, so make sure you have that on you.
Paine Grande was a very windy camp and we were sandblasted all night while inside our tent. Camping at Paine Grande was crowded and very sandy/dusty.
Camping area at Paine Grande
Day 2 - Paine Grande to Cuernos
7.3 miles (11.7 km), 1,241 feet (378 m) of gain
We hiked straight from Paine Grande to Cuernos, deciding to bypass a side trip up to Mirador Británico. If you head up to that glacier viewpoint, it adds about 7 more miles (11.2 km) to the day.
This was our first real day on the trail and it was windy but beautiful. The majority of the trail looks out at both Cerro Paine Grande and Lago Skottsberg. This section felt easy and was a great warm-up for what was to come.
The refugio at Cuernos was so cute and the camping overlooked Lago Nordenskjöld. This is the most scenic campsite of the trek. Campsites are on wooden platforms here, which was nice because we had our own space and a flat spot.
Camping platform at Los Cuernos
Day 3 - Cuernos to Chileno
7.6 miles (12.2 km), 2,350 feet (716 m) of gain
The first part of this section is stunning, taking you above the lake and keeping it in view the entire time. Then we dropped down into grasslands and the only very short muddy section of the circuit. After that we gained elevation hiking up to Windy Pass and then down to Refugio Chileno, which is next to Río Ascencio.
Chileno was one of the more rustic and run-down refugios. The bathrooms and showers were dirty, and they only allowed cooking on one small table in the crowded refugio. It poured rain after we set up camp, so we spent most of the night in our tent playing cards. The campsites here were also on wooden platforms in the woods and were sheltered from the wind.
Views of Lago Skottsberg from the trail
Day 4 - Lago Torres & Chileno to Central
8.6 miles (13.9 km), 2,667 feet (813 m) of gain
We woke up at 4:45am to start hiking for sunrise at Lago Torres. We timed it perfectly and reached Lago Torres right before sunrise at around 7am. This was one of the best views of the entire trek and it was so worth the early wake-up.
After sunrise, we hiked back down to camp and packed up. From there we hiked down to Central. On our way down, there were hundreds of people hiking up, so I was glad we caught Lago Torres at sunrise with far fewer people.
The Central campground is very open and you can camp wherever you want in a large field. We found a shady and secluded spot next to some trees. Though we packed our own food, at this point we realized we were going to purchase more snacks to make it through the back side, so we went to the store at the bus station (a five minute walk from the campground) to purchase some bars, cookies, and sandwiches for lunch.
We also decided that we would buy dinner at Refugio Central that night so we could save one of our freeze-dried dinners for our long day. This refugio allowed us to purchase food without a reservation in advance. The refugio was nice, but the kitchen was slow and we waited over an hour for an undercooked pizza and potato wedges. In retrospect, I would not buy food there, but we felt like treating ourselves.
Sunrise at Lago Torres
Day 5 - Central to Serón
8.2 miles (13.1 km), 1,105 feet (336 m) of gain
This was probably the easiest day of the trek since it was very flat, and this is the first part of the “back side” of the O, after finishing the W at Central. We hiked on an old road for several miles before dropping down into the river valley and hiking next to Río Paine. This was the first and really only day that it rained hard enough while hiking for us to put on our rain jackets.
We arrived at Camp Serón a little wet, but the sun and wind quickly dried us out while we set up camp in a field near the refugio. There was only one toilet for each gender, so be ready to wait in line to use the bathroom. I did not shower here, so I can’t speak to what the showers were like, but they only had two in total. This was the only camp that had any mosquitoes, and though they were not bad (only a few flying around), I still put on DEET just in case. The cooking tent here was too small for the number of people, so we cooked quickly and then ate in our tent.
Rio Paine
Day 6 - Serón to Los Perros (our longest day)
20 miles (32 km), 3,541 feet (1,079 m) of gain
We started hiking early from Serón since we knew we had a long day ahead of us. The beginning of the day was pretty easy with a couple of miles of flat and then a very small pass. The top of the pass was stunning, overlooking the back side and mountains we had not yet seen.
From there we hiked down, dropping in elevation into the next valley. We stopped for lunch at Refugio Dickson, which looked really nice, had a well-stocked store, and was beautiful sitting on the edge of a blue lake. We would have camped here if we had been able to get a reservation, but when we booked, the campground was full, which is why we hiked all the way to Los Perros.
After lunch, we gained more elevation and hiked through a forest until finally breaking out into the high alpine. We passed a stunning Laguna Los Perros with peaks and glaciers above it before reaching Los Perros. This campground is the most remote of all and does not have a refugio, so everyone camps. They do still have a store, bathrooms, and cold showers. We were exhausted by the time we made it to camp after a full day of hiking, so we made dinner and got into our tent.
Los Perros Glacier near Los Perros campground
Day 7 - Los Perros to Refugio Grey
9.1 miles (14.7 km), 3,508 feet (1,069 m) of gain
Los Perros makes you start hiking way earlier than all the other camps. They required us to be on the trail heading towards John Gardner Pass by 7am.
What to expect on John Gardner Pass
John Gardner Pass is the high point and the hardest stretch of the O-Circuit. We reached the top in less than an hour and a half but depending on fitness and conditions it can take up to 3 hours. If you're in good hiking shape, the climb up doesn't feel too hard. It was snowing on the pass for us, though, and with the wind, the snow pelted our faces and we hiked in our down jackets. Rangers can close the pass in bad weather, so build a buffer day into your plans if you can.
At the top, we got our first look at the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, and the scale of the glacier took my breath away. The way down was far more draining than the way up because it's extremely steep. Trekking poles are a must here.
After breaking out of the trees, the views are beautiful as the trail traverses high above Grey Glacier and Lago Grey. We crossed three suspension bridges and then made it to Refugio Grey.
This was the only night we actually stayed inside a refugio, because we couldn't get a campsite at Grey. It was by far the nicest refugio of the trek, so we were happy to be inside. We shared a bunk room with two other couples, who were awesome. The bathrooms, showers and food were all wonderful. Grey has a little restaurant that doesn’t require food reservations so we bought an amazing pizza to celebrate the hard parts of the trek being over. It was worth the splurge.
Southern Patagonia Icefield
Day 8 - Refugio Grey to Paine Grande
6.7 miles (10.8 km), 1,317 feet (401 m) of gain
We started the morning with a hike out to a viewpoint, Mirador Grey, where you could see Lago Grey and the Grey Glacier, along with some icebergs floating in the lake. This was well worth the short hike up, and I would have done it for sunset the night before if it hadn’t been foggy and rainy. Then we hiked on a beautiful trail up to a traverse overlooking the lake before dropping down to Paine Grande.
The booking site wouldn’t let us exit the park that day, even though we’d have had time, so we camped one more night at Paine Grande. Unfortunately, it was another windy night being blasted with sand, and then we woke up early to catch the first catamaran back across the lake to Pudeto.
Catamaran ride across Lago Pehoe
Day 9 - Travel Day from Paine Grande to Puerto Natales
No hiking, just taking the catamaran back across the lake to then catch our bus. When we got across the lake, we hiked out to view the Salto Grande waterfall before catching our bus back to Puerto Natales.
Sunrise at the base of the Torres del Paine towers
The W Trek in Patagonia: A 4–5 Day Alternative to the O-Circuit
If you don’t have the time for the full O-Circuit, the W Trek is a fantastic alternative. Completed in 4–5 days, the W Trek takes you through some of the most iconic landscapes of Torres del Paine, including the Base of the Towers, French Valley, and Grey Glacier.
While shorter than the O-Circuit, the W Trek still delivers dramatic mountain views, glacier scenery, and pristine Patagonian lakes. Many backpackers opt for the W-trek instead due to time and experience levels. The W still offers an amazing experience and the chance to see the towers but you do miss out on the full experience and solitude that he backside O-circuit adds.
Tips for planning your trek:
Book early. The W is the most popular section of the park, and campsites and refugios sell out months ahead for January and February on those sections.
Pack for every kind of weather. We had sun, rain, wind and snow in a single week.
Go to the towers at sunrise. It's an early alarm, but you'll trade crowds for alpenglow.
Consider starting with the W Trek. If it’s your first time in Patagonia, it’s a manageable introduction to the region’s stunning landscapes.
W Trek vs O-Circuit: Which Torres del Paine Hike is Right for You?
If you’re planning a Patagonia adventure, choosing between the W Trek and the O-Circuit comes down to time, experience, and stamina.
| Feature | W Trek | O Circuit |
|---|---|---|
| Duration | 4–5 days | 8–10 days |
| Distance | ~70 km / 43 miles | ~120 km / 75 miles |
| Difficulty | Moderate | Challenging |
| Highlights | Base of the Towers, French Valley, Grey Glacier | W Trek highlights + John Gardner Pass, remote backcountry scenery |
| Camping / Refugios | Easier to book, more popular | More remote, requires careful planning |
| Ideal For | Short trips, first-time hikers, less experienced trekkers | Experienced backpackers, longer vacations, those seeking solitude |
Quick Takeaways:
Choose the W Trek if you have limited time, want a manageable hike, or want a preview of Patagonia’s iconic landscapes.
Opt for the O-Circuit if you have a full week or more, enjoy longer backcountry treks, and want to see more remote corners of Torres del Paine.
How Much Does the O-Circuit Cost?
Estimated cost per person for a foreign visitor, 8 days / 7 nights, in USD. Excludes airfare.
| BudgetYour own gear, cook your own food | ModerateRent tents, mostly your own food | LuxuryRefugio beds, every meal provided | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Accommodation | ~$210Campsite for your own tent, 7 nights | ~$1,390Pre-pitched tent, sleeping bag & pad each night | ~$1,8905 nights in refugios + rented tents at Serón & Los Perros (no refugios there) |
| Food | ~$120Groceries & freeze-dried meals, plus snacks from camp stores | ~$260Your own food + two refugio dinners | ~$1,050Full board: breakfast, box lunch & dinner daily |
| Park Entry Ticket | ~$50CLP $48,500, 3+ day pass | ~$50CLP $48,500, 3+ day pass | ~$50CLP $48,500, 3+ day pass |
| Bus: Puerto Natales ↔ Park | ~$30Round trip, per person | ~$30Round trip, per person | ~$30Round trip, per person |
| Estimated Total | ~$410 | ~$1,730 | ~$3,020 |
Estimates use 2026–27 high-season (November–March) rates and assume two people sharing a tent; solo travelers pay a single supplement. Totals don’t include airfare, hotels in Puerto Natales, the Lago Pehoé catamaran (about $30 one way if you start at Paine Grande), gear rental in town, or tips. Prices change every season, so confirm with Las Torres Patagonia and Vertice before you book.
What to Pack for Backpacking the O-Circuit
I wrote a separate blog post all about packing. View my full O-circuit packing list. This is based on our 8-day itinerary and includes all of the clothes and camping gear we packed.
For our backpacking setup, we both used the Hyperlite Mountain Gear Southwest 55L. They were perfect for the 8-day trip! And if you’re looking for clothing suggestions, check out my full guide on What to Wear for Hiking and Backpacking.
A few things I wouldn't do the O without:
A tent that can handle serious wind (Paine Grande will test it)
Trekking poles for the steep descent off John Gardner Pass
A warm down jacket, even in summer
A waterproof rain jacket and pack cover or liner
Your passport and Chile entry card, in a zip-top bag
Cooking, Food & Water on the O-Circuit
Where you can cook (and why fires are banned)
Cooking is only allowed in designated areas. Each campsite tells you where you can cook, and it was always a shelter or cooking tent. They didn't seem to care where you ate, but every stove had to be used inside the cook shelter. Because of that, we only cooked breakfast and dinner, since we couldn't use our stove anywhere along the trail.
Fires aren't allowed anywhere in the park, so bring a backpacking stove. The rules are strict for a reason. Several huge wildfires in Torres del Paine, including in 2005 and 2011–12, were started by visitors and burned thousands of hectares of forest. Please follow the cooking rules exactly.
What we ate
We packed freeze-dried meals from the US in our checked bag and ate those for dinner. For breakfast, we found instant oatmeal at the Unimarc grocery store in Puerto Natales and added membrillo (a firm quince paste) to make it tastier.
We also brought bars, Clif Shot Bloks and vegan jerky from home, then supplemented our snacks with cookies and protein bars from the stores in the park. For lunch, we alternated between tortillas or bread with peanut butter (from the Carnes Natales Express Market in Puerto Natales) and hard cheese with salami. We're vegetarian but tend to flex on long backpacking trips and bring salami when needed. It was the only meat we ate on this trek.
Refugio meals and stores
The refugios offer all meals for purchase, but you need to buy them in advance when you make your camping or refugio reservations. We skipped this and were self-supported for all our meals. Every refugio also has a small store with cookies, chips and sodas, and many sell pizza when the kitchen isn't serving main meals.
Water
Every campsite and refugio has a potable water spigot or sink, so you don't need to filter or boil water at camp. Every blog we read said the water in Patagonia is clean even in the streams, but we were still hesitant, so we brought a SteriPen. We only used it once, when filling up at a stream. Otherwise we always got water at camps and refugios, so in reality we didn't need the SteriPen or a filter.
Where to Stay Before & After Trekking in Torres del Paine, Patagonia
We flew into Puerto Natales, Chile before starting our trek. This is the closest airport to the park and the town is a great starting point to get any food and gear you did not bring along. Gas canisters for our Jetboil stove were easy to find at any of the many outdoor stores, and we did all of our grocery shopping at the Unimarc and Express Market. Most hostels and outdoor stores also rent equipment including trekking poles, backpacks, tents, sleeping bags, etc., though I highly recommend bringing all your own gear along so you have lightweight items that you already know how to use. We felt very light and streamlined with our Hyperlite Mountain Gear and equipment from home compared to the rental equipment available in town.
We stayed at the Yaganhouse Hostel and absolutely loved it! The location was walkable to everything in town and even to the bus station. We spent three nights there before starting the trek. It was clean, cute, and quiet. We opted for a private room with ensuite bathroom since it was my first hostel experience and I’m glad we had our own space. Their breakfast was also one of the best we had on our entire South American adventure, and I would definitely stay here again.
I highly recommend booking a couple nights before your trek to explore Puerto Natales and get anything you may need, and then also book your night after the trek in advance so you know where you are staying when you return. We booked all of our hostel accommodations through Hostelworld.
Storing Extra Gear/Luggage
If you are doing more than just Torres del Paine in your time in Patagonia, chances are you will have more gear or luggage than you want to backpack with. We checked a duffel bag when we flew in that included our trekking poles (you can’t bring them in your carry-on), and all of our freeze dried meals and snacks. This duffel then came in handy to leave with our additional gear at a hostel.
Since we were spending a month and a half in South America, we had more clothing and an iPad that we left in the duffel. I bought an Apple AirTag to keep in the duffle in case it ever got lost, and then we left it at a hostel while we were trekking. Most hostels either have lockers you can use, or a place where they hold luggage. Some are free if you are staying there when you return, and others charge a small fee to hold your gear (something like $4-7 USD for a few days).
Additional Resources for Planning Your Trip
Book your entire trek with Booking Patagonia (how we booked)
Booking camping and refugios through Las Torres - Central, Chileno, Francés, Los Cuernos, Serón
Booking camping and refugios through Vertice - Dickson, Los Perros, Grey, Paine Grande
Book camping and refugios through CONAF (the national park) - Paso, Italiano (as of 2024 these sites are closed)
FAQ – Hiking the O-Circuit in Torres del Paine
How long does it take to hike the O-Circuit?
Most backpackers take 7 to 10 days. We hiked for 7 days and spent 8 nights in the park, which felt like a good pace. The full loop is about 75 miles (120 km) around the Paine Massif. If you can, add a buffer day in case wind or snow closes John Gardner Pass.
How much does it cost to hike the O-Circuit?
When we hiked in 2023, camping, our park ticket and the bus to and from Puerto Natales cost about $550 USD per person / for the two of us. The catamaran between Pudeto and Paine Grande was another $30 USD per person each way. Self-supported camping is the cheapest way to do the O. Staying in refugios, renting tents and buying meals can multiply that cost several times over.
How do I buy a Torres del Paine park ticket?
Park tickets are now sold online only, at pasesparques.cl. They aren’t sold at the gate. Choose the ticket that covers the full O-Circuit; the Base Torres and W options don’t cover the full loop. Download the PDF with the QR code before you leave Puerto Natales, because there’s very little cell signal in the park.
Do I need to book campsites in advance?
Yes. You need a reservation for every night on the O, and rangers check it at each camp. All the open campsites are run by two companies, Las Torres Patagonia and Vertice. You can book directly with each one, or book both at once through Booking Patagonia like we did. The free CONAF campsites (Torres, Italiano and Paso) have been closed since 2024. January and February fill up first, so book as early as you can.
What is the best time of year to hike the O-Circuit?
The O is open from November through March, Patagonia’s summer. January and February usually have the most stable weather, but they’re also the busiest months. For fewer crowds, try late November or March. Expect strong wind no matter when you go.
Do I need a guide to hike the O-Circuit?
No. We hiked it on our own, and the trail is well marked and easy to follow. You just need every campsite booked and the right gear. Guided treks are available if you’d rather have someone else handle the logistics.
Is the O-Circuit difficult?
It’s moderate on the W section and hard on the back side. The challenge comes from long days, Patagonian wind and weather, and John Gardner Pass. The climb up the pass is steady, but the descent toward Grey Glacier is very steep, so trekking poles are a must. Our longest day was 20 miles, from Serón to Los Perros, because Dickson was full when we booked.
Is the water safe to drink on the O-Circuit?
Every campsite and refugio has potable water from a spigot or sink, so you don’t need to treat water at camp. We brought a SteriPen and only used it once, when we filled up at a stream.
Can I buy food along the trail?
Yes, but don’t count on it for your main meals. Most camps have a small store with snacks like cookies, chips, bars and soda, and many refugios sell pizza. Prices are high, though, and stock is limited. Refugio meals have to be bought in advance with your reservation. We carried all our main meals and bought extra snacks along the way.
What’s the difference between the O-Circuit and the W Trek?
The W covers the popular south side of the park, including the Base of the Towers, the French Valley and Grey Glacier, in 4 to 5 days. The O includes all of the W, then loops around the remote north side and over John Gardner Pass. It’s longer, quieter and harder, and it’s the better choice if you have the time.
Can I hike the O-Circuit clockwise?
No. Park rules require hiking the O counterclockwise, from Central toward Serón, Dickson and Los Perros, then over John Gardner Pass to Grey. Sections of trail also close at set times each day, so you need to reach certain checkpoints by the posted cutoffs.
Final Thoughts on Backpacking the O-Circuit in Torres del Paine
Backpacking the O-Circuit or the shorter W Trek in Torres del Paine National Park, Patagonia, is a once-in-a-lifetime adventure. Both treks showcase some of the world’s most dramatic landscapes, towering peaks, pristine glaciers, turquoise lakes, and endless hiking trails.
For those with limited time, the W Trek offers an incredible 4–5 day experience that highlights Patagonia’s most iconic spots. If you’re ready for a more immersive challenge, the O-Circuit provides 8–10 days of backcountry exploration, including remote sections and the spectacular John Gardner Pass.
No matter which trek you choose, proper planning is key: reserve campsites or refugios in advance, prepare for rapidly changing weather, and bring the right gear to make your Patagonia hiking adventure safe and enjoyable.
Whether you’re a first-time hiker or an experienced trekker, both the W Trek and O-Circuit deliver unforgettable experiences that truly capture the magic of Torres del Paine. Use this guide as a reference to plan your backpacking trip in Patagonia, and get ready for breathtaking scenery and adventures that will stay with you forever.
Looking for More Patagonia Backpacking and Hiking Ideas?
If you’re looking to extend your Patagonia adventure beyond Chile, El Chaltén in Argentinian Patagonia is a must-visit destination for hikers and backpackers. Known as Argentina’s trekking capital, it offers stunning trails to Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre, and Laguna Capri, with options ranging from half-day hikes to multi-day backcountry adventures. For a complete guide on planning your trip, gear tips, and the best trails in El Chaltén, check out my full guide on the area.
Gear Discount Codes and Links
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